removing the old door seal and installing the new one

 added some reinforcement brackets behind the door hinges

 The new seal seems to want to get caught on the door catch?

The door dose not seal in the top right hand corner ??? I guess it needs to be bent inward.

 re painted the vista view shades on the inside (the side seen from outside)

 had to repair the holes where the vista view shades get riveted to the roof. I used MEK melted plastic to goop around the cracks.

 Re sealed the front window and did some extensive Vulkem sealing around the inside and outside of the glass pain.

 just a view though the front window.

 Pulled the tail lights out cleaned and re installed and Sealed using a bead of Vulkem.

 another before they were cleaned and re installed.

 Oh what frustration the rivets around the tops of the windows (the ones were I replaced the leaking olympic rivets) still leak ....

 the other window same issue

 Also found some more leaks by the door

 And leaks were the zip d awning brackets come through  the shell.

 Taking care of the leaky loose Zip D awning brackets.

reenforcement brackett slid between rib and skin.

 building a scaffold for working on the roof

 some pictures of the roof

 the antenna has to go

preparing the door for its new gasket.

this past weekend was also productive got most of the olympic rivets replaced in the repair skin and got two windows sorted

 some touch up paint on the closures

I got the thetford valves rebuilt 

 now I am working on the Trunk lid

We did lots of riveting this weekend. I got the shell riveted back on to the Channels and a lot of the olympic rivets replaced with proper buck rivets.

 I am also trying to get the windows sorted out .

Ok lots happening this thanksgiving week

 installed the wooden slats that join the floor sections together using elevator bolts.

Filled the cavity with ridged insulation where I had put on the belly pan

 here the floor sections are going on (but not fitting well)

 spent a day making up black and gray water tank trays not having a bender I had great difficulty making the bends and I am not totally happy with the results.

here is the gray water tank tray

 measuring and cutting the holes for the wast tanks.

 made new and installed the banana skin attaching pieces.

 Final fitment of the last floor piece with all the holes cut in it. I am using rubberized undercoating to seal any cuts and the flooring has bed liner painted on the bottom and spar varnish on the top.

 had to pause to replace one of the sensor connectors

 lining up for the top install

 lifting

 lifted far enough

 halfway there

 got it under

 easing it down

Ok all going well..... so far

More Troubles

I cleaned up and pached the one piece of belly pan that came with the trailer and bolted on the leveling jacks 

 Now its finally time to put on the new axles... or is it

 My new Axles came complete except for one thing the axle pins! I thought no problem I will cut them off the old axles and weld them on to the new

 job done looks good.... or dose it take a look at the clearance between the shock mount and the axle mounting plate... there is none

so I cut them all back off and shortened them as much as possible and re attached. you would think problem solved but there is now still almost no clearance between the pins and the frame and the only way I would be able to remove the shocks would be to remove the axles.  The real issue is that on the old axles the shock mounting plate is attached in the middle of the cam. you can see in the picture above that the new axle it is attached at the very edge of the cam. not sure what the thinking here is???

Another issue is that the new axle mounting plates appear to be about a 1/4 inch wider than the frame mounting plates. (I don't believe this is an axle problem I think my frame mounting plates are slightly bent inward). I will have to apply some brute force to bend them outward to get the axles to fit in place. needles to say I gave up for the day in frustration.